Kerala Backwaters

My friend Asad and I were planning to take a break from our hectic work last month in September, when we met a friend of ours who had recently been to Kerala, God's own land. He sketched the scenic beauty of Kerala in such a way that we could not wait to contact our travel agent at Delhi, Decent Indo Tour and asked him to organize our trip. Our patience had not to be troubled for long and soon we were on our way to Delhi, from where our seats had been booked in a flight for Thiruvanantpuram, the state capital of Kerala. Visiting Kerala for the first time, I was as excited as an impatient child and had kept on troubling Asad with my queries(he had been to Kerala once for some work).

Since our trip was organized in such a way that we could probe into the mystic backwaters of Kerala, after having some refreshments in Thiruvanantpuram, we left for the gateway of backwaters of Kerala- Kollam. Kollam, also known as Quilon is situated on the banks of Asthamudi lake at the Malabar coast. As we were coming closer to Kollam, I was gradually falling in love with whatever I saw: Lakes on either sides of the road, colorful flowers in the rivers, children playing on the banks of the lakes, fishermen catching fishes in the backwaters and a distant view of historic remnants and temples built in traditional ornate architecture! Though my heart urged to stop for some time and sit on the bank of the lake, but my mind reminded me that it was the time to reach Kollam as our travel agent had already booked a houseboat for our backwater cruise. By the time we reached our destination, we met a middle-aged man with angelic eyes waiting for us. He happened to be our houseboat in-charge cum guide.

I had never been to a houseboat earlier and was amazed when we went inside. It provided all the excellent facilities such as a living room, a luxurious bedroom, kitchenette, an open lounge, deck. Even there was a crew that comprised our guide, a cook and oarsmen. Sensing my curiosity (perhaps he was used to it) the guide said that it was made of bamboo poles, coconut fibre, ropes, bamboo mats, carpets and was eco friendly. As soon as our houseboat started its voyage making its way in the lake, I was further enthralled to see lush green paddy fields and towering coconut trees along the shores of Asthamudi, the second largest lake of Kerala. From the houseboat I could see the local villagers working in the paddy fields. Even small children were swimming in the lakes like professional swimmers. 'Perhaps they learned to swim first and then to walk', thought I. It was the moment when my thoughts were interrupted by the cook, 'the meal is ready'. I was further delighted when served the meal full of mouth-watering delicacies. "Is there anything that a tourist would not like?" "Yes, and very soon you will get to know it", smiled our guide.

After the meal, when I came out on the deck, some more different and exotic views were waiting for me in the form of beautiful lagoon surrounded by soft whispering lake which was perhaps one of the ultimate gifts of nature to its viewers. The houseboat had come closer to a tiny island, Coir Village. Greenery appeared to me a natural inhabitant of the small island lying along the blue backwaters of Allepey and Kollam. The dazzling beauty of the paddy fields and the shores on either side studded with coconut trees and rich vegetation further excited my sense of beauty. "Could we stop here for a while", My friend Asad asked our houseboat in-charge and he smiled, "You have enough time to hang around the island as the houseboat would be moving late at night for our way to Allepey. " I felt myself on the seventh sky. It was evening, the time for village ritual at the temple. I was surprised to see such a large number of people at the temple as if half of the village had assembled for the worship. Our guide who was accompanying us further amazed me when said that it happened everyday. By the time the priest finished worshipping, the entire surroundings had become pure. I was feeling peace and purity inside myself that made me quiet for some time. Then we took a bullock cart to hang around the village. I was first surprised to see a bullock cart in today's era of supersonic jets but soon felt like passing through the galleries of the ancient Kerala while passing through the lanes of the village. I was glad to see women weaving Coir products from the coconut husk fibre.

By the time we reached our houseboat, it was dark and we were hungry. The dinner was served on the traditional plantain leaves which was a unique experience for me. The dishes served to us were Idli, Sambar, with Coconut Chutney, Rice and Fish-Curry which were more delicious than the lunch. The houseboat had started moving towards our destination Alleppey and I with my friend came back on the deck. The night was starry and the image of moon and stars when fell upon the flowing water and lotus flowers, captivated my heart. The shores were quiet with only the the slow movement of palm trees and our moving houseboat and flowing water as a few exceptions. It was the time to retire to bed, but the slow buzz of mosquitos disturbed me while I was trying to sleep. "There is one thing that a tourist may dislike", I remembered what the guide had said. But whatever I had come across the entire day had such a mesmerizing effect on me that could not be spoiled by even millions of mosquitos!

The next morning I was awoken by the melodious songs of birds. When I went out on the deck of the boat, what I saw robbed my heart! The sight of Palm fringed narrow canals winded through the vast expanse of paddy fields and the neat tiny hamlets lined up along either sides of the canals left me spellbound. There were Water Ducks and Siberian storks, who added to the scenic beauty. As the houseboat moved on, the villages were now providing me a close glimpse of the rural life of the Kerallites. Everything was new for me: Fishermen going to the waters with their traditional boats, Women standing in deep neck water while trying to catch fish with their legs, Cattle grazing on the lakeshores and the Children playing games on the banks. Wherever we asked, the boat slowed down and gave me some opportunities to click the beauty. 'What are these boats for', Asad asked our guide when saw some unique boats. The guide obliged, "The boats are known as Kettuvallams, made from a wood known as Anhili". I was surprised to know that the history of backwaters and Kettuvallams had together passed through the passage of time as earlier also they were used for trade and navigation.

As we moved on through the Alleppey backwaters, a vast network of lakes, lagoons and fresh water rivers crisscrossed it. We were now closer to our destination, Alleppey or Alappuzha, also known as Venice of the east. Suddenly figures that resembled snakes from a distance horrified me. When I peeped through my Binacular, they happened to be a number of large boats. When asked our guide, we were informed that it was a boat race christened as the Nehru Trophy that takes place on the most auspicious day of the Tamil festival of Onam every year and 120 participants takes part in it. 'Amazing', uttered Asad. Our most enchanting experience on the backwaters of Kerala was over. We thanked and wished our crew members on the occasion of Onam and moved to see the thrilling boat race on the bank of the lake at Alleppey.

Abraham
Traveller from Middle East